FotoClave 2007
Feature Articles
Our favorite links
Manufacturers
Suppliers and Distributors
Information Sources
- The Digital Dog
- Carol Leigh
- Darkroom Source
- DigitalTruth (Massive Dev. Chart)
- Jack’s Photography & Chemical Pages
- Scanning Tips
Photographers and Galleries
- SFMOMA
- Jeff Wou (member)
- Ellen Kellem (Fine Art Photographer)
- M. Morgan Fine Art Photography
- California Heritage Collection
- Carey Bird Photography
- Lloyd Erlick
- Mark Citret (Fine Art Photographer)
- Summit Photo Workshops (Barbara Brundege)
Alternate Processes
- Pinhole Resources
- George’s Polaroid SX-70 pages
- Handmade Images (GLSmyth)
- Infrared Photography 2
- Marco Pauk’s Infrared Stuff
- WJ’s Infrared & Photography Site
Camera Clubs
- Central Coast Counties Camera Club Council (6C)
- Northern California Council of Camera Clubs (N4C)
- Tongeren Belgium
- York Camera Club, England
Labs
Photo Teaching Sites
- Ambient or incident-light meter
- Wacom Tip Archive
- Exposure – A Beginners’ Guide to Photography
- New York Institute of Photography – Tips for Better Pictures
- Photography Tips
- VISATEC – the light
- Photography – Suite101.com
- Lighting Techniques
- Photo Tips – How To Take Photographs
- Night Photographer Dot Com – Night Photography by Larrie Thomson
Facts about Film and Temparature
If you enjoy taking pictures, you’ve probably heard you should store your film in the refrigerator. And you may have wondered if that's really true. Well, here are the facts about film and temperature and the proper way to store your film … PIC-TIP All color films are perishable. Under refrigeration at 55 degrees or lower, the chemical composition of color films remains relatively stable. Under normal conditions – 75 degrees or lower – Kodak color films used for general picture taking do not require refrigeration. In fact, storing them at room temperature allows the film to mature to its aim color balance and speed. However, extreme heat is film’s worst enemy. During the summer or in tropical regions where temperatures exceed 75 degrees for extended periods, we recommend refrigerated storage for all Kodak films. Do not open the original, sealed packaging until you are ready to use the film. If you open it, the protection against high humidity will no longer be effective. We do not recommend refrigerated storage to extend film life beyond the expiration date printed on the carton, especially for high-speed films such as KODAK ROYAL GOLD 1000 and KODAK PROFESSIONAL PORTRA 800 and SUPRA 800 Films. High-speed film used after its expiration may show excessive graininess due to the effects of cosmic and gamma radiation that is naturally present in the environment. Refrigeration will not prevent the effects of radiation. If you choose to refrigerate your film, be sure to let it warm up to room temperature before breaking the seal. This will prevent condensation from forming on the cold film surfaces.
Photographing by Window Light
by Claudia Peterson
As we have all heard so many times, “Paint with light”. But what happens with natural window lighting is that you control how that is done. In window lighting, you paint ½ of the subject with more light than the other half. Thus, what you need to do in your home is find a window that lets in light well. Not sun, just light!!! Then on the other side of the subject, opposite the sun, place a large reflector (soft gold works best). You can move the reflector close to the subject for less drama, farther away for more drama. Drama means more contrast between sides of a subject.
If you want a very soft look of painting with light, then hang a see through curtain in the window that cuts the light. I am speaking of netting or the like. You can also use an object to block the light where you want to paint less, say a hand or such. Shades that they use for cars in the summer work well. I am speaking of the window shades that come in 2 sections. Use one section. Also, if you have a helper, you could use reflectors and shaders all over the place. I am afraid I use only how many hands are available that day.
With a person I find that an F-stop of 11 will cover from the nose to all of the ear. It is a tolerable stop for someone holding still also. If it is a still-life, then I use an F-stop of 22 to 32, “with mirror lock-up”. Mirror lock-up makes the difference between all images being sharp, compared to some images being sharp. See if your camera has this great feature. It is valuable. If I did landscapes, I would always use it there also. What it does, is moves the mirror up, so that when you trip the camera release, there is NO MOVEMENT.
A cable release is valuable because when we make human movements they are actually in slow motion, jerky. So if you push the button with your finger, you risk movement. With a Cable Release you do not risk movement. Of course a tripod with sturdy head is a given anytime. Soooooo… why take the risk!!!!
Claudia Peterson
Copyright © 2007
Light & Shadow Camera Club